BCM build

Hello! I’m relatively new to the AR game and I’m looking into putting together a BCM rifle. I would love to know and hear what you would add to your build mods etc. Im looking to spend $2000 or less. Thanks and all help is appreciated.

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Ive never spent over $500 in parts, but that was before the end times started.
Remember, a rifle with no bullets is a club, and an AR/M16 makes a bad club. I know.
What ever caliber you choose, make sure you can buy/make ammo.

Also barrel twist rate is important for the weight of the pill you wish to push down range. The wrong twist will end up with larger groups. I had built a custom barrel for 300 blackout with a 1/12 rate to stabilize smaller pills (110-150gr). it spins the costly 110gr and 125gr varmint grenades good out to 200 yards. It shoots 147gr M80, trash, pulled machine bullets better than the wee ones.

I did depot service on M16s in the Army decades ago. Ive shown 100s of folks how to make them. My flintlock too 5 months to build.
An AR is a 2 hour project at most.

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That “should” be easy, and

Welcome!

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Welcome from KY.
With that kind of budget I’d be buying parts from LaRue.

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Welcome to the forum.

The first question is what are you wanting to do with your rifle? That determines a lot with respect to recommendations.

Second, what caliber(s) are you considering?

Third, are you wanting to build a rifle out of parts you pick? Or, are you buying a rifle and making modifications to fit your plans?

Do you have, or have access to, the tools needed to build or work on an AR?

What drew you to BCM for parts? There are many other reliable brands available in all price ranges.

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Oooh, pcc upper can do 45acp or 10mm!

Wade Wilson Marvel GIF

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@Atrutender21 welcome to full30! I don’t think you can go wrong with BCM they are good. These options depend on what use you are looking to do with this firearm but, trigger’s really make a difference. CQB carbine or shorter LaRue or BCM nickel boron are very good for this use. Of course there are dozens of others but I have used the 2 mentioned. If it is more precision rifle length 18” or 20” Geissele ssa-e gets my vote.

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Welcome to the forum. I’m an amateur but with your budget you shouldn’t have any problem .

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Welcome

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Welcome @Atrutender21

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A 2nd here on the side charging unit. My best advice is get a B.A.R.T. ll Tool. It has made a huge difference in the accuracy our MSRs, and they greatly reduce torque on the upper during assembly.

Oh yeah and…

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:+1:

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That is a cool tool, not needed, but really nice.
We use a block of wood in a vise to build them.

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Aimpoint Duty RDS. Then a quick-adjust or bungee two-point sling, a Surefire light, and that leaves about 1000 for the gun. Leftovers can be spent on your choice of the Sentry Strap to hold the sling, a Magpul B.A.D. lever, a polymer foregrip (it’s lightweight, and the handguard gets hot), a tape switch, a trigger upgrade, or metal backup irons. Or get a bunch of Magpul or Lancer mags.

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A white light in a danger zone will get you kilt. Period
See Light and noise discipline field manual.
Wrap that sling around your neck and some one will hang you with it.
A standard 2 point rifleman’s sling is what every military uses for a reason. Stability.

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Block of wood to clamp the receiver? I’d rather use a receiver/extension rod, even that doesn’t also true the receiver face like a BART Il.

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There’s definitely lots of good material on this. In short, use sparingly and strategically to avoid revealing your position unnecessarily. As a failsafe to avoid accidental activation, the Surefire manual says to loosen the tailcap.

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Im cheap.
In jungle school they showed us that light a cigarettes (under cover), dropping a helmet, and even coughing can get you kilt.

The 2 handed pistol/flashlight is a better way to go. The Op4 might shoot at the light, which is away from your body.

Or just dont use white light, the one white thing that IS bad.

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IMO you need a light on a home defense gun, you just don’t start shooting people in the dark. you may kill a family member. i put momentary switches on mine. i will push it to see who it is before i shoot.

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Actually the two-handed pistol/light sweep is exactly how I was taught too. While I ‘get’ the weapon mounted light I don’t have one mounted, not just for the reason you mentioned that the light is a ready made target. Also because if you are using a WML to illuminate a person to identify them, you have violated a couple of basic safety rules and likely the law. Take it one step further. If the unknown turns out to be a Cop you will probably get arrested for it. Take it another step, if it turns out to be a loved one and a ND occurs how do you forgive yourself?

Now TBH we have them for our rifles, but they aren’t mounted. The only WML that is mounted is the Sub2K in my laptop case. The reasoning is if the Sub2K ever does go ‘live’ the world really went sideways. That unit has no other purpose for us than we weren’t at home when it hit the fan and the vehicle is down so we are afoot trying to blend in on our way to ‘safety’.

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