Bob's Build No. 2

https://www.borideabrasives.com/PublicStore/product/Polishing-Stone-Kits,108,517.aspx

here is the link. This takes you to Boride abrasives polishing kits . You select from the list AO and the size. For use with the Everglades stoning jig I like the 1/4 x 1/2 x 6 which is the size I believe comes with the Everglades kit.

The kits come in to grit ranges a rougher to mid range grit kit and then a fine and extra fine grit kit.

I think it is matrix precision takes the AO boride stones and makes them smaller for use in the frame rail slot. Also there is a small 1/8 size by boride that can also be purchased and can be useful for trigger jobs etc.

I think you’ll like those stones. Much much easier to clean and cut easier and cleaner.

PC

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Thanks! I’ll be sure to get some of those.

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One thing you will find with those stones is that when you start removing material from the rails with the Everglades jig after a while you will see a divot in the stone from where material from the stone has been removed by the rail. This is ok because its doing its job! So the AO stone will get used up quicker than other types of stones but it does such a better job in my opinion in cutting and being able to keep the stone clean that it is well worth it. Those AO stones will still last a long time so make no mistake about that.

PC

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Ajax scouring powder and green scotch bright pads do a real good job of getting metal out of stones.

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@shooterrex That’s a great idea! I will try it, for sure.

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This is the same method I E used in the past

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As it turns out, the last set of stones I bought from Everglades are made by BORIDE in 320 grit. So I may be good, and didn’t know it!

https://www.evergladesammo.com/shooting-accessories/gunsmithing/am8-stone.html

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The JB Compound and oil did the trick. The slide-to-frame fit is very nice and the slide moves under its own weight from battery position to full recoil. It hangs a tiny bit in recoil, requiring a gentle touch, and then will slide off the front of the frame under its own weight.

And I have the grip safety blended to the frame. I need to get some pictures of that, if I can take some that show anything around the glare off the stainless Harrison grip safety.

Today I’m getting started on the hood fit by measuring and remeasuring to mill off the hood edges in the Everglades hood cutting fixture (https://www.evergladesammo.com/shooting-accessories/gunsmithing/barrel-hood-cutting-fixture.html).

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Hood fitting went well. I used the Weigand hood fitting worksheet to keep me organized:

https://www.jackweigand.com/1911%20Barrel%20Hood%20Fitting%20Worksheet.html

The EGW hood length gauge made hood length measurement easier and more accurate:

https://www.egwguns.com/hood-length-gauge

Brownells’ Barrel Alignment Block and the Barrel Holder from their Lug Fitting Kit held the barrel in the correct orientation for measurement.

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/handgun-tools/alignment-tools/barrel-alignment-tools/barrel-alignment-block-sku080000041-369-1690.aspx?sku=080000041

https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/handgun-tools/barrel-tools/barrel-fitting-tools/lug-fitting-kit-sku080000089-18787-41788.aspx?sku=080000089

I used a surface plate and height gauge (I should have bought a used Starrett instead of the new Shars) to carefully measure to get dimensions to calculate CD on the Weigand worksheet. A Starrett micrometer was more accurate than a set of calipers for the hood width (both before and during machining).

If there’s anything I have learned about using a mill in the last few months is that measurements are KEY. Do them them repeatedly after breaking down the setup and then putting it back together until you find a consistent repeatable dimension. Measure again at several stages of the milling process as you approach final dimensions. And use measurement tools you have high confidence in (be sure it’s you and not the tool or you will make yourself crazy - and inaccurate).

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The sad news I discovered today is how badly out of alignment I managed to drill the sear and hammer pin holes from side to side. :unamused:

I’m still trying to figure out how I did it.

And, of course, all the 80% 4140 frames are sold out. So it may be a while before I can get this project going again.

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Oh yeah, try a glock frame kit for 80%

sold out everywhere

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No. :grinning:

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Think I have an extra full size 80% Glock kit if you have to have 1

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Just curious did you drill all the way through from one side? If so that’s your likely the culprit.

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No. I set up and drilled from both sides. I’m starting to think that I just screwed up the set ups.

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TR-Enabling has some full size 4140 frames in stock. Here is the link to their government model non checkered https://www.tr-enabling.com/product-p/frgc0b.htm.

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They do indeed and I have ordered one.

In the meantime, I have fit the top barrel lugs to the slide and ended up with .048" of engagement, so that should be good. And the barrel bushing is snug, but can just be turned by hand.

But I do need to go back and check the firing pin alignment to the primer pocket on small and large primer brass.

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The firing pin alignment looks good.

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My replacement frame arrived, so the project is back on track.

The hammer and sear pin holes were first, this time, and came out right.

And decking the frame was uneventful.

I’ll cut the frame for a Clark/Para ramped barrel, next.

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whoa, what type of jig are you working with?

How do you mange the alignment?

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