Hello everyone. Seems we don’t have a Smiffin’ section in this forum, so I decided to start a thread on some of the 80% 1911 builds I have done.
The reason I used 80% frames was not to “hide” my pistols from the gov, but because CA laws prevent people from buying frames.
For many of these pistols below (in multiple posts I will be making) I have build videos for on YouTube and will bring them over to Full30 when I am allowed to upload.
So… starting with… Build 4 “Mellow Night”
The 80% frame was finished (rails cut) using the Matrix Precision Rail Cutting Jig.
As you can probably tell, the cutters are placed on both sides and the jig can be run by hand operated crank handle or using a power drill to move the frame through the cutters.
Hand Checkered the front strap. Using a new method where I use the Checkering File all throughout the checkering. Not using single point V files anymore.
Trying to see if I can do 10 Line Per Inch (LPI) Checkering using what I have - a 20 LPI checkering file and single point V files (90 degree ones, not 60 degree).
Prepare yourselves again. Soldering (for the first time) a Stan Chen Magwell Gen 1 (for the first time) onto this frame.
The Stan Chen Magwell Gen 1 and Gen 2 don’t extend the length of the grip. Instead, the frame is cut down to be replaced by the magwell.
The cut was made using a hacksaw and filed to dimension.
The government (full size) frame was converted to Commander size by moving the recoil shoulder back to commander spec. I did this using a countersink cutter with a pilot, a sleeve bearing, and using a power drill.
That’s closer to what I would be able to do if I get the green light to be able to buy more guns by the wife. Haha. I want an inexpensive 1911 that I can convert to .460 Rowland.
Build 9 was a full length dust cover build.
And is likely going to be the pistol that gets a match weight at the front.
This is also the build that I used my mini mill for (got one for free from a friend/co-worker)
The rails on this one were cut using the Mini Mill from Harbor Freight.
Ever since building the RaMmeR, I wanted to build a 9mm, but wanted to make my own mount for the RMR. And now since I had a mini mill I could finally realize this project.
So…lets start at the beginning
4140 steel and the discounted (since Type 2 came out) RMR06
Using the new Stan Chen Magwell Gen 2. This one has a huge throat and doesn’t require soldering. The frame is still cut down by the height of the magwell.
In the above pictures you can see the lightening cuts I did on the slide RMR mount slot as well. My goal was to make the slide weigh less with my mount, rmr sight and battery than it did originally. And I did it.
When I got it back from Evolution Gun Works (authorized IonBond FFL dealer), here is what we had.
Thank you. It was pretty cool and I think I will actually send it out for Hard Chrome finish.
It obviously gives a lot more freedom to do what you want to do. The Matrix Rail Cutting Jig is the best jig out there for rail cutting, but it only does one thing.
Looking at your list, you dont need a drilling jig if you are getting a decking jig with drill inserts. Buy you may need to get the drill bits if it doesn’t come with them
Also, depending on the frame in the kit you may not need a barrel seat cutter or the decking jig. Usually it is one or the other. See what is listed as steps/actions to complete the frame. Some frames come with in spec decks but need barrel seats, others come with barrel seats cut but need to be decked.
No, I currently live in Los Angeles County that has very strict zoning rules and anti-gun regulations that would make getting a new homebased FFL impossible.
As a gun owner you can send your gun to FFL directly, for handguns you have to use overnight FedEx or UPS service, for long guns USPS is ok. Or you could have an FFL send it to the Finisher FFL.