Building / piecing together a Glock better than buying factory?

I ask this because I can get a decent trigger and a better slide and still be less than buying a factory assembled model. Looks like building a Glock is like building an AR with all the options I’ve seen and it makes better sense and will be less expensive to build if I’m going to end up modifying it anyway. Unless I can find a G20 frame for CHEAP I may go this piece-meal route.

I’m looking to use the full size G20 platform for my 9x25 Dillon conversion. Here’s what I’m looking at for the frame and trigger.

The other details:
|LWD-7496|LWD Extended Slide Stop 3 Pin|
|LWD-ESLL|LWD Ext Slide Lock Lever Black|
|LWD-342|LWD Connector 3.5 lb|
|LWD-350-6|LWD Trigger Spring 6 lb|
|LWD-420|LWD Trigger Pin|
|LWD-4368|LWD Locking Block Pin|
|LWD-5446|LWD Slide Lock Spring M/17,17L,20,21,21SF,22,24,31,34,35,37|
|LWD-1447|LWD Full Size Locking Block|
|LWD-427B|LWD Trigger Housing Pin (Black)|
|LWD-UTH-45|LWD Universal Trigger Housing 45 (w/ 45/10 ejector)|
|LWD-280|LWD Mag Catch Spring|
|LWD-8795|LWD Magazine Catch Reversible (Gen 4)|
|LWD-4417|LWD Trigger Bar Fits G20,21 & SF Models|

I’m undecided on the slide at this time…



I built a Glock17 totally from after market parts, even the frame. It shoots great.


Building / piecing together a Glock better than buying factory

IMO same difference, I’m as happy with a stock Glock as 1k build,

both are striker fire, can’t change the stripes on a zebra



I like that slide. I’m having a hard time finding slides for the G20… I’d like to find slides with “windows” or cuts in the slide to help with heat dispersion (and obviously aesthetics :wink: ).


The question / topic title is a bit ambiguous for what I was trying to get at so perhaps I can explain it a bit better. :slight_smile:

Not looking for precision, match grade this and blah blah that. :thinking: I’m looking to spend as close to the factory cost for one as possible when including the 9x25 barrel and have it look a little different than everyone and their grandma’s Glock. So I’d never spend $1k on it, ever. :smiley: This is the opposite of my approach to building an AR–which by the way your last sentence also applies to ARs. :cowboy_hat_face: For the AR I wanted specific components and no one offered these as a package, and if they did it would of cost twice what I paid for, however, in the end it is still an AR. But I digress. :wink:


That slide came from Glockstore


Didn’t see any for the G20. :frowning: I’m wondering if I just need to have someone do the cuts on the factory slide?


Yep, same thing.


For me, no
But again it is like the AR…
Every personal Glock and AR I own are modified. But not crazy…
Hey, if you have the money, great… but at the end of the day, if it is a daily carry (mine all are to a degree) I keep them very close to stock and as reliable as they can be. Zero lightweight firing pin springs etc.

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Not a lot of choice, currently, in G20 slides. If you are looking for a G17 or G19 slide, there is a lot to choose from. Other models vary from ‘some options to choose from’, to “is there anybody making these for the aftermarket?”.

Lone Wolf Distributors has stainless G20 gen 3 slides that match the factory slide profile, and ‘featureless’ slides that haven’t had the serrations cut or the machining done for the sights (if you want to customize it).


I have assembled a couple dozen Glock’s and as soon as the aftermarket parts appear on the gun the budget build is done. The aftermarket slides ,barrels and triggers are the biggest expense.
Here are 3 of my builds.
P19 G23 G31


Oops the top one is a G17 and a work in process.
Here’s the G23


Keep going, you can mirror that with some more effort


It depends a lot on the quality of the parts and mostly the quality of the gunsmith.


I’ve decided to just buy a full factory G20 and go from there. Because who knows how long it’ll be before KKM gets enough interest to start producing those 9x25 Dillon barrels again. And I’m not about to pay $300~400 for one on ebay or gunbroker.


Make sure and go from there, search glock G20 bullet tumble, I’ve had 2 and used a 3rd, all tumbled rounds, perhaps a replacement barrel would fix that, IDK


Twist rate on a G20 barrel is 1:9.84 which I believe is the same at a glock 9mm. However, looking online, the optimal twist rate for 10mm seems to be 1:15.75 and 1:16. Their spinning the bullet way too fast, which is why it’s tumbling.


I did a little looking, LoneWolf has barrels but I didn’t see a twist rate listed. GlockStore has barrels as well, I found a ported barrel that lists in the additional details, if you want accuracy, 1:16 is what’s listed on that barrel. Seems to me Glock messed up on the rifling.


I had no idea, I don’t even own a Glock anymore…


Is the G40 also this way? I don’t want to have to buy another 10mm barrel on top of the 9x25 barrel.

Also, how far out is it before the projectile does start to tumble from the muzzle? Are we talking about self defense distances (5-15yds) or further hunting distances (30yds+)? I just need it to be accurate and effective at SD distances.

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