OK, I am building this 6.5 Grendel, as most of you know. I bought a lower parts kit that includes a trigger. I have read and a few of you have mentioned that I should get a separate trigger. For what I want, which is an all around rifle for defense, plinking, and if necessary, hunting, I wonder whether I really need to spend that money. After all, I’m sure that they sell these kits with a trigger for a reason. Many people must use them. This is not a competition rifle.
So what is wrong with the trigger that comes with the kit? Why should I get a separate trigger?
Unless there are a ton of bad reviews out there for the LPK you have, I would not proactively seek out a different trigger. Only if issues present themselves when test firing or range usage would I go looking for something else.
You should look into the LaRue MBT, on sale for $87 until Christmas. Hands down the best trigger for that price range in the two stage category. I highly doubt the trigger in the LPK will allow you to get the most from that Faxon barrel unless they have put something besides a mil spec FCG in it. The crisp break and short reset of the MBT is miles past any trigger I have ever gotten in a LPK. You don’t have to put an aftermarket trigger in your rifle, many plod on with factory mil spec, but I bet you don’t get 200 rounds down the pipe before you feel that LPK trigger holding you back. https://www.larue.com/products/larue-tactical-mbt-2s-trigger/
A smooth and consistent trigger independent of weight makes a huge difference in the performance of the shooter. It is much easier to be more accurate with a good trigger. Normal triggers that come with the average LPK tend to be heavy, gritty, and inconsistent.
I second @jtallen83’s recommendation. The LaRue is my go to AR-15 trigger and you will not find a better trigger for anywhere close to that price.
I really recommend going with the LaRue - you won’t regret it.
The trigger is one of the best upgrades you can do. Velocity triggers has some very nice drop ins with 3.5 pound pull. You will never look back with a good trigger.
Unless you’re trying to shoot at far distances or in competition, a stock trigger will do just fine in my opinion. Several of my carbine setups have standard milspec triggers they are just fine for short range shooting. If you were getting out into long range shooting, then you would definitely want a quality trigger that is a lot lighter pull weight. Keep in mind, you can always add a better trigger down the road if you were unhappy with the one you start out with.
I agree, more comfortable, more fun, but not necessary. Every Precision weapon I own, I have either replaced the trigger with a quality timney or jewels or other brands or have had a gunsmith lighten them to the point of unsafe than slightly back up a little Lol a light pull crisp breaking trigger is a must for longer distances and it is very nice for every other use. my point was is just not necessary & can be added anytime easily down the road if the user so desires to. If budget is not an issue, by all means, build yourself a performance Lamborghini! Otherwise, a souped-up Dodge Charger will still get you from point A to point B quite nicely
If this is your first build, it is perfect. Lightly oil the moving and friction parts, and learn how it goes into the lower.
There are a ton of YouTube vids on this, and you will have the learning experience. Anytime in the future it can be pulled out, and you will know how. Mind the springs carefully.
Pretty much everyone agrees that a higher quality trigger (actually the fire control group) would make a difference in how consistent, clean and crisp feeling the trigger pull will be. However, this is not to say that one HAS to upgrade.
What I should have said in my earlier reply is what I see posted a lot by people that have a lot more experience than me - if it ain’t broke, don’t fix it - which applies very well to a rifle that will not be used in competitions or super long range shooting.
You don’t need to buy a different trigger than a normal mil-spec trigger if you just want to shoot your rifle.
The difference will come into play if you are trying to shoot tight groups. If that is your goal than you may want to look into a different trigger as long as you’re budget is willing. Having said that what @jtallen83 recommend is the best deal out there at the moment.
My personal recommendation is to go with a giessele trigger. I honestly wish I could swap all of my triggers to them. They are expensive, but if you buy once you will only cry once.
Just so we are clear there is nothing wrong with a mil-spec trigger. They will, and have done the job for years.
They are top of the heap for AR trigger. I started out trying to get a Giessele in every rifle, slow process when an SSA-E is better than $200 on a good sale. Mark LaRue changed the trigger market with the MBT. Yes my SSA-E is a touch lighter and a tad crisper but my SSA are maybe beat by the MBT. He grabbed the middle of the trigger market by the short hair and brought it home.
We run a lot of Hyperfire triggers.
But, if it is your first build, go out and shoot it. A LOT… then think about what else you would like to see better.
For me, an ambi safety is a must. Then a charge handle that I can get my fingers on… pistol grip has to be of the Magpul MOE style… anything just about that is bigger than a mil spec.
With that said, if the trigger you install is around 4 to 5 pounds get used to it. Then install a Precision 3 to 4 pound trigger and you will wish you did it sooner.
If you have a super heavy trigger, we have had them a 8 pounds “mil spec” do something now about it
hiper fire
Larue MBT( I prefer it to Geiselle but generally do not care for 2-stage triggers)
Nickle boron mil spec trigger (ALG ACT, Spikes, SOLGW, BCM, etc.)
Good triggers are worth it but not needed right away, imo.
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