As awesome as that is, and likely pricey, you still need to remove the chain, then reinstall the chain, I can’t see it saving time, at least not when you add the time it takes to pay for the machine too
But it looks cool
Those have been around a while. not cheap either. i’ll stick to my manual one.
Do you have a 12 volt model like this @Belt-Fed
STIHL 0000 882 4001 Portable 12 Volt Saw Chain Grinder/Sharpener
No, bench mounted kind.
You mean rakers, the dogs is attached to the saw
Thats what I meant …misspoke
Technically speaking they are guides. But when the tooth wears down enough how we always took care of the height of the guide was with a flat bastard
Now Now, that john roberts feller ain’t that bad.
Thats probably gonna garner me some major ribbing.
Nah, the ole boys kinda slow, he won’t know yer talkin about him.
I was told by “my” chainsaw shop gent that sharpening a chain with a grinding wheel would harden it so that I could no longer sharpen it in the field by hand. I have stuck to file sharpening. It’s not hard to do and yes, I can do it in the field. I know no one ever touches the chain to dirt or a rock, but when it happens I’m glad to have the means to a sharp chain at hand.
How I do it… Sink the chain and bar into the downed tree in a convenient place that I can get to. Switch it off and remove the saw from the cut and over tighten the chain. You don’t want it sloppy since the angles are sorta critical. Put the bar back into the cut for a 3rd hand while you sharpen all the cutters on one side. Either get on the other side of the bar or switch the bar to the other side and do the other cutters. I save lowering the rakers for when it’s in the shop.