Suppressor that is. I like using them, but cleaning them is way beyond being a PITA. The only can I have that can be cleaned is a Dead Air Ghost-M the rear half has SS innards the far end has anodized aluminum. The SS can handle pretty much any cleaner and the aluminum portion needs care in the choice of cleaner.
I tried CRC intake valve and turbo cleaner today and I didn’t see that it did much other than make a mess.
Has anyone here tried stainless steel pins and a tumbler for the SS baffles? There has to be an easier way to do a better job than I’m currently doing. Today I used a small screwdriver blade and elbow grease to chip the deposits away and frankly the result was nothing to be proud of. My DI would NOT have been pleased.
My Ti-Rant 45 is a bitch to clean. I learned early on not to delay cleaning past a few hundred rounds, it was a real pain to get apart. I have tried different lubes and dry to try and reduce buildup with no appreciable difference seen. So far a pre treatment of Slip 2000 Carbon Killer followed by a few HOURS in an ultrasonic cleaner gave me the best results, meaning the least time spent scraping carbon. It just flat sucks cleaning cans. The only upside is I tend to shoot just a little less through it now, balances out that ammo budget that went sky high the first year of shooting with cans.
If I had one… Id take it a part and soak the pieces in P111 solvent
(Tetraethyl pyrophosphate).
Wear your mask and gloves its real nasty. Its what the army armorers use. My stash comes from when I was an Armorer
Thank you for your support
I did a search for the chemical name and found one place that had it for sale, $87 for 50mg. Another search turned up nothing for P111 solvent.
I’d be very leery of any method of cleaning that uses brute force like a wire wheel. However a tiny wire wheel might be able to get in where a bigger one might screw up tolerances. I have a Dremel…
It’s all greased up and together right now so it has to wait for the next cleaning. But that’s why I’m asking the question. Next time I want options to try for the section that takes the brunt of the filth. I still have the end section to clean but that should be easy in comparison (fingers crossed). But it’s aluminum and that will be easy to screw up if I get too heavy handed.
That would be a good move by manufacturers. But mine doesn’t. Raw SS for the parts that take the brunt of it and anodized aluminum for the parts at the far end.
This thread reminds me I still have to clean my SRD9. It’s been a month and I’m afraid of what I’m going to find. I’ve never let it go that long. The good news is I only ran a couple hundred rounds through it.
I did have a friend tell me he uses weld splatter grease (sorry, don’t have the technical or trade name at the moment). He claims it works really good. Like just wipe it out good. I’ve been willing to give it a go, so will have to ask him what brand it is. When I worked at GM we used a ton of it. At the time I didn’t really care what it was. I just slathered it on weld tips and it worked to keep the build up off.
If there is any excess at all it will be splattered all over everything, inside and outside the gun including the shooter. I had thought shooting wet sounded good, less sound the better right? One trip to the range shooting wet was enough to convince me putting stuff in your can that isn’t fastened down is a poor idea. I’d be curious to know what type of grease it is, I have tried a couple different weapons grease types with no satisfaction but I hate cleaning so I’ll keep chasing the unicorn.
Only have 2 and neither can be taken apart. Ultrasonic cleaner is what these get done to them and I have to take them to a lgs to have it done. Usually a couple times a year.
I’ve shot my can wet with water with no negatives to report. I’ll try that Hobart grease. With water one only uses 5cc, which isn’t very much. I wouldn’t mind wiping it after every use if it’s actually does the job.
Right now I have that CRC spray I mentioned earlier in it because it’s just nasty stuff. Leaving it in/on the parts was the easiest thing to do.
As far as the sealed units, supposedly just fire them to get them really hot and the gunk gets blown out. I have one that I need to do that to. I figure put it in the oven to give it a head start, then fire 30 rounds or so, and not leisurely.
The Dead Air Ghost-M. The manual even states that the water will soften deposits (water??). Supposedly my Surefire F556k can also be fired wet for better suppression, not for cleaning, but others have told me they’ve never heard of a rifle can being fired wet. Yet it’s in the manual.
I use an ultrasonic cleaner. I will soak mine from time to time in simple green or something equivalent.
Cans are going to be coming out that have internally coated surfaces. Cerakote is working on the coating and has for the last 2 years now.
I coat mine that I can take apart… BUT! the tolerances is tight! So… I have to be careful.
It dies help though especially in the blast chambers and the first few baffles.
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The good news is I only ran a couple hundred rounds through it.