Let’s keep posting a new 1911 project

Thank you

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I have a video on you tube of some of the parts I have processed for The Punisher’s 45 i am working on.

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Do you have pictures of your Punisher 45?

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I have video posted in youtube, bitchute and full 30.
I can take a few pictures later this morning. I will make a short video with the larger parts I polished

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Right, I took a look on YouTube. It seems you enjoy to polish metals, which is cool.

I only saw videos that show you polished the jigs and a p14 80% frame, which I would leave unpolished until the frame was already finished. Because if you are planning to finish it, there may be a need to touch up areas. Same for the barrel. It may get marred while you tune the 1911.

Also, full30 currently doesn’t show any videos submitted on your account, just FYI.

What do you use to polish stuff?

By the way, what do you like to shoot? Have you moded any of your current guns? Show those off in pics too. Mirror polish stuff can be challenging.

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I think polishing the frame then cutting frame rails is a better method. The frame rails are better protected. The polishing may erode and seriously damage the rails.
The surface is not going to be touched up when it is finished. The metal undergoes enough stress and transformation I do not want to excessively repeat labor.
It may well have imperfections as scratches. This is consistent to Para Ordnance. It built to be very powerful. The better it looks the more I was able to display in effort. Visible Mark’s are harder to remove and less important than its power.
Polishing the bead blasting off displayed a surface not as perfect as what I am used to seeing in pictures. Some Manufacturers may go over the surface and machine it smooth. The grade is more how it comes out. I want it perfect. What I can accomplish is thought to be beneath this unrealistic goal.
The barrel I would think will scratch when being fired.
I have videos and am uploading more now my name
THOR KILL
Is the account.
I use mothers aluminum polish and socks.
I have no guns now. I had numerous 92’s
glocks and a double barrel shot gun I sold. They where all new.

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well, I feel I must address some of the items in your post.

Mothers aluminum polish and socks are going to shine up material with all the existing imperfections. If you want to do professional polishing you will want to go through pregressively higher grits of sanding, possibly even stoning and then manual buffing while making sure to not roll over edges.

Most manufacturers will mask surface imperfections with sandblasting because if they did the alternative and sold only the perfectly prepped parts those would cost thousands of $ due to amount of work that would have to go into it. Thereby, you would show more effort if you actually removed all marks, scratches and imperfections by properly polishing the parts. That is where skill really shows off. There are posts on 1911forum for example where people showed off their polishing skills with truly perfect surfaces.

It is good that you are going for perfection, but you should try and go the long (and proper) way to really achieve it. I think you will enjoy the results even more and gain more skills in the process.

Regarding power… What do you mean by Para Ordnance being built to be powerful? Do you mean they make stronger frames?

And as for process - it is always best to “finish” parts after all the aggressive operations are done. With 80% you would need to cut rails and drill holes at the very least. And then fitting and blending will take place. That is why it is best to leave finishing touches to last operations.

How come you sold all your guns?

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I have to disagree with the methodology of your polishing before doing the major operations of the build
When building a custom 1911 there is so much work and fitting that goes into a build that it seems presumptuous to finish first when your just gonna have to go back and do it all over
Tolérances being what they are as we all know when building dictates in a way how you finish
For example when using duracoat or cerakote your tolerance will change with the added finish same with polishing except you will loose tolerances and not stack them

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When I polished my first build I started with 400 grit and finish whit 3000 using a little oil. But I didn’t touch the rails and just the outside of the frame. Making 1911 food :grinning:

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@2lazylh that’s almost more important than the build

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One day in the near future I will finally setup a reloading station and start learning.
It will surely be a therapeutic process for me.

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I know you will enjoy reloading, and never regret it. I started about 2004 with 204 ruger and 22-250. But now I also load 9 mm , 38 special ,38 super , and 45 acp

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:pick:

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Just for the threads sake a 1911 post
De horning before sanding

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Red flag confiscation would be my guess.

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Your probably right

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What you are telling me is illogical.
I had explained to you so you could understand.
There is something wrong with you. Other people can see the work I have done.
It does not need stones. That is not a real method.
They used uranium parts. That is much harder than what could be smoothed with a stone.
All the people here cannot build a weapon. It is a form of play for them. They do not have the ability to build.
You should realize I am not a troll.

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Your post is nonsense
Obviously you have done some work on something
Obviously not a 1911
Troll all you wish if you want
Tread lightly
And don’t tread on me troll

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I am not you.
You do not know what you are stating. Your ignorance shows powerful.
You are making statements that are hostile like angery child. Your ego is clearly very fragile as your fantasy of yourself is easily broken.
What you show is you are a fake

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I liked both your last posts because they put a smile on my face.

I actually tried to be respectful to you in my previous post. I don’t know if it is a language barrier or pure ignorance on your part, but it was a waste of my time.

I do believe you are here to troll the forum

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