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SOG DonationsThat’s awesome.
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Never having done this myself there are no tips I can share at this time.
But, if you are going to do it, please document every step.
And by ramped frame you mean one that accepts a ramped barrel? I would advise using a mill or at least a sturdy drill press (with end mill), unless you are thinking of doing it by hand.
It has been 45 minutes since your last picture. Yup, that is exactly how impatient I am.
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Ahahhahahahah
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Sorry, old people go to bed early 
No, I don’t have a mill and don’t trust my drill press so thinking of doing by file. I feel I could do the filing part , it’s the indent curve that I think I would have troubled with. This is a stainless frame
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The build I am working on now is all being done with hand tools (except for the cocking serrations I couldn’t get elsewhere and asked a friend of mine with a mill to help me with).
I think it’s very doable, with the advice available online, for someone “good” with hand tools to be able to build a nice 1911.
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I would actually attempt your checkering idea on scrap peice of metal before attempting it in a frame
Just me being cautious frames are not cheap and I wouldn’t ruin one just for a experiment
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I have built several 1911 pistols and have not as of yet used anything but hand tools
To me that’s half the fun of the project that’s what makes it yours and makes you value it
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Well, it can obviously be done because others have done it. That is why I wanted to try. It is probably the same reason you want to try too.
Schuemann Instruction manual (1).pdf (21.3 KB)
From the above doc.
(3) Frame Modifications (Ramped Barrels Only)
(3.1) Clamp the frame in a mill vise with the frame rails horizontal. Install an 11/32 inch
or smaller flat bottom end mill. Set the machine zero at the top of the rails, then move the
end mill downward 0.315 inch and cut a slot aft from the standing lug slot to the magazine
well, centered between the rails. For best accuracy, the slot should form a tight slip fit with
the barrel standing lugs.
(3.2A) (Wilson/Nowlin Ramped Barrels Only) Insert a slide stop into the frame.
Measure the distance between the rear of the slide stop pin and the aft face of the stand-
ing lug slot. Subtract this distance from 0.500. Clamp the frame in the mill vise with the
frame rails vertical, and using a 29/64 inch flat bottom end mill or the Nowlin ramped bar-
rel frame bridge cutter, move the aft face of the frame standing lug slot downward (aft rel-
ative to the frame) by the resultant distance (typically about 0.160). Then clamp the frame
in the mill vise with the frame rails at 45 degrees from vertical. Chamfer the corner at the
intersection of the two above cuts. The intersection is chamfered its full length between
the sides of the frame standing lug slot and the chamfer has a width of 0.050 inch. Using
a flat needle file, round the two edges of the chamfer to match the rounded mating corner
on the barrel (1/16” radius).
(3.2B) (Clark/ParaOrdnance Ramped Barrels Only) Insert a slide stop into the frame.
Measure the distance between the rear of the slide stop pin and the aft face of the stand-
ing lug slot. Subtract this distance from 0.600. Clamp the frame in the mill vise with the
frame rails horizontal, and using a 3/8 inch flat bottom end mill do a vertical plunge cut,
moving the aft face of the frame standing lug slot aft by the resultant distance (typically
about 0.260), with the end mill centered between the rails. Use a Dremel tool to round the
corner at the top of the cut to a 1/16” radius to match the fillet on the barrel standing lugs.
^^^This should help you with all the dimensions you need.
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Thank’s guy’s for the advise, first I will deck the frame and then start the ramping the frame… Watch your video about 4 times again today, you make it look ez . Get that part done and start on checkering . You don’t know tell you try.
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Just a bit of advice
Cut your frame rails and fit your slide
Before moving on to the checkering or dehorning
If the rails aren’t correct there’s no point in putting in all that work checkering
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Thanks for the advise it is appreciated , other peoples experiences help out a great deal .
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Also to add
When starting to checker your frame just go slow and take your time
You will feel the need eventually to move along
2-3 lines down max every time you move downwards
On the frame
I generally do the horizontal lines first then move on to the verticals
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Well today I had a little time from christmas shopping ( kids - grand kids - great grand kids ) so I started on my ramped barrel frame cut, good luck . I need to fined a end mill bit that fits in a dremel .
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Do you happen to have your barrel handy and your slide stop ?
Is the barrel fitted to the slide
Is the slide fitted to the frame ?
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Diagonals. First set will be bad. Second worse.
Key here will be to not push too hard on the file at first.
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@Mosinvirus I have been thinking about what he’s been contemplating I have a frame that’s cracked and has no checkering as of yet
I may try what he’s suggesting
My only issue is getting the angle right
And the first lines straight
I need a new file too
Mine is getting just a bit dull
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No I don’t have a slide or rails cut yet, 1911 builders had these frames on sale some time back so I got one to try to fit a ramped barrel . I did’t get the slide just in case I screw up. I have barrels and slide stop . This is a just to see if i can do it project .
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Don’t pay attention to temp balusters and posts…
The tread and rise have been recalculated and will be more comfortable.
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The last piece to the puzzle
My new lady friend sent this to me unknowingly
She learned what she was looking for and dig through my box and bought me the last part
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Impressive!!! And I don’t mean the MSH.
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