Let’s keep posting a new 1911 project

Understood. I was just thinking of the kind of writeups or videos where people test various products and showing results.

Was just wondering if someone did something similar for Cerakote. Like coating a sandblasted surface, a sanded surface (say 220 grit), relatively smooth surface (say 600 grit) and then a mirror polished surface.

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It depends on the series, but most types of Cerakote will not adhere well to polished surfaces. It has been my experience that air volume through your paint booth, the quality and settings of your paint gun, the mix ratio of the Cerakote, and your prep work all have more to do with the final texture than the underlying substrate surface… within reason. That’s not to say that Cerakote will magically fix your mistakes or hide poor workmanship. It’s the opposite, garbage in equals garbage out. What the aluminum oxide does is provide uniformity and a purchase for the Cerakote.

Oh, and don’t forget the Golden Rule… Always Test On Scrap!!!

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Great information, thanks for the input!

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I bet there’s a good one out there somewhere. :thinking:

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On a side note, Cerakote also seems to like being applied over anodize too.

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it is good at retaining oil so I bet it will grab onto cerakote with a vice grip.

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I had thought about trying to do that DIY at home, but it just seems like a bit much. Especially for the quantity of anodizing I would be doing over time. ROI of money and time and lack of versatility has steered me away from pursuing it. I do still get a feeling of half-assing it if I don’t do some type of hardening before coating it, but that’s just something I may have to live with. If I wear out this frame then I’ve gotten my time and money out of it. I doubt it’ll get a ton of use with all of the other firearms I already have (as I’m not a reloader…yet).

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I completely understand. You may be able to find someone local with an FFL that could do it for you while you wait. If that’s still a thing? I put together my home anodize setup on the cheap. I can only anodize with it when it’s balls cold outside (below freezing) so I save my aluminum projects for the winter.

Sorry that the project pictured here isn’t a 1911.

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Last week here in TX would’ve been perfect, you could’ve run for a solid week! I did a local search for someone that could do the work, but all I found were anodizers with no FFL and FFLs that don’t anodize…only cerakote. Damn it!

Absolutely beautiful work, by the way, 1911 or not.

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Ok, I’m unsure which to ask first

but, is that a 3 phase mill you’re using or what?

and

wtf is that logo on that lower?

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I use a homemade rotary phase converter.
The logos are some kind of Pokemon thing that I thought looked neat… don’t judge me!

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If I squint just right, it certainly looks like… Well, not like a 1911. But I like it.

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I have a feeling this will be a great build. Please show a lot of pics.

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This thread is still active now

Be careful when fitting the slide to the frame
The steel rock island slide is pretty hard and If not fit properly will crack the rails on the aluminum frame

Ask me how I know

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@Preyhunter

If you have technical questions feel free to ask

I’ve used a few kolonimus parts as well
There not bad at all

Be careful with sarco parts kits as well
They tend to need a bit more fitting at times

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I hope you’re right!

Thanks. I’ve done a build with a Sarco kit before. Got so frustrated with the ignition parts that I put the build down for nearly a year. Went back to it, just messed with it a short time, then ordered a new hammer and sear. Build went together fine after that. Speaking of, I need to get a TR sear jig while I’m at it.

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Most of the parts are servicable with a little polishing and fitting, but throw the sear spring in the trash and buy a WC!

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Agreed there garbage

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What about a Wolff sear spring? I was planning on using their other springs since it’s a 9mm build and the parts kit includes all .45 strength springs. Any opinions/experience?

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Just a heads up to anyone interested, CDNN has these Remington beavertails on sale for $10 and they fit the Stealth frames pretty good. They also have Remington ambi safeties for $20 and flat mainspring housings with 25lpi checkering for $19, all blued and all going on this build. Shipping kinda sucks at $10, so you might want to check out some mags or other stuff while you’re there. I just thought I’d put this out there because it’s nice to find something like this that fits at this price for these particular frame tangs. It sure beats the $60 EGW beavertail price tag for my PSA frame when I built that.


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