Just got my matrix cutter. Can’t find a tutorial on how to properly mount a 2011 frame in the jig. Can anyone help me find some visual instructions. Thanks
I saw his excellent videos but they were directed at a 1911 frame but did not show a 2011 frame.
Thanks. Just what I was looking for.
Mosin and his videos got me through m build. You should chat him up he is a great guy and answered all my questions.
@Mosinvirus has mentored a lot of folks
His knowledge is a great tool and he shares it with almost anyone
He is a great friend
I have a 2011 slide and frame set up but I sold them due to the cost of actually building one
My total cost is around $1100 due to some spare parts I had laying around.
I really stopped because I don’t like the plastic grip module
I wanted something better and base price for metal ones starts around 700 fit a decent one
You are so right. The plastic one has already cut my finger in several places due to the sharp edges. I went with plastic to keep the weight down. I’m shooting for around 36 ounces without a magazine.
Just make sure to measure the deck height of your frame and if it is as low as they used to be, make sure to use shims under the frame to position the rails correctly in the matrix jig.
From the top of the slide stop pin hole to the deck of the frame the old frames used to run .343" or so, instead of .348-.349"
Because the matrix jig references off the deck, if you didn’t shim up one of those old frames the rails would be cut lower, and then you would be dealing with other things as result.
Thanks. I’ll use my calipers and measure from the top of the slide latch hole to the top of the slide. Is this correct. Please advise. Thanks
I also found that I have to fit my grip safety because the back of the frame is cut differently than a standard 1911. Right now there is very little movement in the grip safety
That should not be different.
Did you the outline of a 1911 frame as a template when modifying the 2011 rear?
I don’t remember doing that.
If you are talking about the rear tangs of the frame, it will probably be .250 radius. But it may be slightly larger. The fitting process would be exactly the same as 1911 though.
The trigger stop arm may also be hitting the frame on the inside, as is often the case with 1911s, and will need to be fitted if that is also happening.
Post some pics
You need a porn warning
Who made the frame? And what did they say about the tangs radius?
Also, do you have another caliper that reads thousandths?