Well i had my video series on Kalash and Brass so while i finish having it edited, I thought I would fill y’all in. Above is a picture of the kit on the work bench. It was a bit exciting with the build about to commence. Everything is ready why all the parts. Once I assembled all the needed parts together on table it was time to start the video. In short we matched up the front and rear trunnion with the receiver and make sure our fit was correct. After that we then started the process of dimpling the receiver. In this way we had the metal on the dimples on the receiver. This way the dome-shaped rivets have a nice surface to bond with as we crush it it will fill that empty space and form a uniform rivet. After this process was done folding the metal for the rivet holes. Then came back with a rat tail file to make sure that any excess metal was shaved off. This is a hand fitting process and it took some time. Slowly but surely we got it all done and from there we went ahead and test fit it one of the long rivets for the back rear trunnion portion.
Once we know we had a nice perfect fit with very little wobble, we then proceeded to get the AK Builder rivet Crusher in place in line everything up. Once this was done we then proceeded to smash good old rivets.
As you can see above the rear tail rivet that is long, came out perfectly. Uniform in shape and flush to the receiver itself. The empty void space that was below filled perfectly and with a nice tight fit. This is the most important river that has to be crushed so that your other rivet holes can be put together and place without any worry of wobble. So this helps with making sure you don’t egg hole out the other trunnion holes.
As you can see above in the photo I perform the same work on the second rivet hole but as you noticed it is pretty much raised out and not uniform. This is happens when there is not enough support because of the nature of a underfolder and the rear trunnion being thin metal in the front portion of it. Using a block jig that I can slide for different heights back and forth I support the metal and allowed it to be crushed uniform. But before we can do all that I have to remove the rivets that I messed up.
Using the mill that I perform the drilling process to make sure the holes were uniform in the correct size. I proceeded to shave off the old rivet and knock them off. After this was done I went back to the process of crushing the new set of rivets into the holes. Unfortunately I didn’t snag a picture of this but it’s definitely in the video that will be edited and upload it soon. After this procedure was done I repeated it for the rest of the rear trunnion holes.
As you can see above they are crushed correctly in flush. One of the rivet present a problem to me with the rear training portion being dimple or bent in slightly. There was a small ring but not really noticeable from a far. This sometimes happens with under-folder since it’s not all one solid piece but it does not impede the function and the rivet was crushed to spec so that it will not interfere with long-term in the picture above you can see that the inner portion of the receiver the rivets are a circular disc that is smashed fleshly and evenly across. It’s very important because this will either make or break your receiver if you decide to use it over extend it. You can experience cracking and rivet wobble.
The next photo above is the completion of the front Trunnion fitted the same way as the rear end drilling into it. Once you use the AK Builder tool front tray and holder it was straightforward and test Drilling the front train with the mill then sliding on the receiver. In and out with out any fuss. Once you drill the holes perfectly these are the Flathead versions so they do not require the dimpling other receiver to work.
We do the same process of crushing them with the AK Builder tool and the process is the same using a 12-ton 20 ton press we made sure that they were crushed uniform and evenly. I highly advise having a second person who will pump the press while you hold the receiver in place and Visually guide them and how many strokes are needed. The beginning stroke on the 12 ton or 20 ton press may seem like it’s not moving but as you feel more resistance and it it will start giving way. It would then become really easy as you proceed forward. Towards the end of the crushing of the rivet it will give you more resistance with a 12-ton pressed Buffet 20 it will seem smooth and fluid.
As you can see above these are perfect rivets that have been crusty receiver. I would say it is Factory looking. This whole build process if done correctly will take about two to three hours. If you run into any issues take your time be patient and work the process. The easy part is getting the receiver together the tuning portion will be for your rails for the bolt carrier and the extractor claw headspacing is really easy just make sure you have your bolt in place and do your twisting back and forth on it to make sure it’s closed properly and if you want a tighter fit. I’m for the latter end of a tight fit Bolt. Preference but you can decide on your own as long as it close completely in the lock and groove.
The same as we did for their front you can see that these are perfectly Crush rivets and they look near Factory. From the outside portion of the rivers to the insides are crushed correctly and perfectly. In the video. Post in the future you will see more. And me verbally explaining everything as we go along in the process of the build. For now look at the pictures and how it looks. This is the same as the previous video series and I explained about the process itself and better detail the video. The next photo you will see is of the assembled Barrel that is pressed into the receiver.
It’s always good to have a good friend give you a helping hand or that third hand as they say. Also have something to protect the crown the most pennies for your thoughts, come really in handy. I have my friend Tom give a slight demonstration and how it’s going to look when you press the Barrel in. The first photo shows him using the penny as a crown protector for the barrel and the second after the barrel and headspace were the bolt that was near us is the barrel pin being pressed. Using Lube on the barrel and using lube on the barrel pin is important. You don’t want to t gall to the metal or cause it to go in croked and possibly cracking their front trunnion. This is very rare but it happens on machines at factories versus with a hand-crank we can back off and try again. Be patient also make sure your measurements are correct for the barrel Journal size and the journal size of the front trunnion. Off by a couple thousands is okay nothing more though. After we did the final touches on putting the barrel pin in with the Press we have a complete receiver just have to add your parts like your trigger assembly, safety selector, hand guards and the folding stock. Also I did not mention that we install the trigger guard and latch rivet into it. Basic a plate push down to the jig and Crush below you will see the final photo before we did all the accessories
Once everything was done it was a matter of just patiently putting it all back together. Snakebite is real with those springs for the AK-47 and its variants. Always have a shotgun shells housing on hand to tame those little Vipers. You do not need to pay the blood price on your first time just saying. After you have a assembled everything and taking your time with underfolder. You’ll need to assembled the folding stock, there are three pins one that goes across one holds that the assembly the second one is behind it on the outside ring that is twisted on and then the pin is through shot through. After that the other side of the internal mechanism and you’re done. I’ll provide some nice pictures of the final product and for your viewing pleasure. I know this is a lot to read and maybe a timer for work I hope you enjoyed it and the video will come soon.