Thank you guys!
Yes I’m fine and so is my handgun.
Lesson learned.
I use dillons case lube on my brass, does the lanolin have a negative impact on the load? What caused all the smoke?


Currently I’m buying bullets from xtreme bullets?
I have used Berry’s Bullets. I found Berry’s Bullets hard cast to have the blue wax (lubricant I assume) all over the bullet, where as from Xtreme the wax is in the groove only. I don’t even know if that’s an issue, it just looks like the quality control is better at Xtreme. Opinions?


If you are using Carbide dies, then you really don’t need case lube for most pistol cases, just make sure they are clean when you run them through the machine. Smoke could be caused by several things, being over charged, lube from the lead bullets, and/or the powder you use.

Xtreme and Berrys are both pretty good, just depends upon what you are doing. I’m a dealer for both of them, but I don’t recommend one over the other unless I know what your are doing specifically, the gun, etc. You may do better with a coated lead bullet too.


First of all, I started reloading in 1977, so I have experience. Second, if you look it up, 4.2 gr Tightgroup in 45acp is a safe load. It just does not come close to 830 feet per second. When I consulted the Hornady reloading manual, it showed that increasing the charge to get the velocity I wanted would have caused excessive pressure, I consulted with my LGS owner, who is very knowledgeable, and a former Palma Cup champion, about an alternative. He recommended N320 after checking for safe pressures in the company data on line. So no, there was never any danger involved, because I followed the proper safe procedure, which is the first and most important rule of reloading.


I just reload for the sheer fun of it. I target shoot only and so far only use my Smith & Wesson 686 and Glock 19 9mm. All I’m looking for is factory like reloads…


My first question is do you own a good reloading manual and have you read it? If not, invest in an RCBS, Sierra or Hornady manual and read the techniques sections . . . twice.


OMG, you need to crawl before you run. Different bullets more differently. Some need more powder, some need less. When loading there’s like 20 different things you need to consider. Barrel twist rate, bullet grain, the type of bullet, the jacket/coating, the power, flake, grain, rod, and the amount of powder. Each needs to be balanced to create the perfect load. I’m not talking plinking range loads. I’m talking tuned rounds for that gun.

I’ve used xtreame bullets a lot, I find they are great jacketed bullets, travel true, and have good prices. I’ve moved past them and now cast my own as well as coat them.

I only do this for handgun loads as unjacketed bullets in a gun with a gas system is a bad idea.


Yes, a Lyman.


Okay, I’ll just crawl a while longer. :+1:


Read, read, read, and then read some more. Start with lower loads and work up. You will enjoy the hobby much better that way.


Hi guys , I don’t claim to be an expert !
But I have loaded a couple of rounds .
Here are some of my go to powders for various calibers:
.223/556 H335 /CFE-Rifle
.308. H4064/ Varget
6.8spc. 8208XBR
300wsm. H4350
10mm. 800X
40s&w. Titegroup/HS6
9mm. ACC#7/Titegroup /(P+ HS-6)


Thanks guys, my head hurts, I’ve been reading. I never realized all the variables that go into choosing the best components for what I want in a cartridge! Back to reading.:wave:


Just used up a1pound container of CFE Pistol on .9mm and 357sig and I really like this stuff !
It meters good and is a clean burning powder.
I have also started loading Autocomp in 45acp, it’s been my plinking powder for my 10mm auto for a couple of years. It provides great velocity without that overwhelming pressure that 800X hits you with, plus it meters great compared to corn flakes !