Reloading Steel Cases?

Anybody here have any experience reloading steel cased ammo? I almost ordered 500 rounds of Tula 38 Special today because it was at a reasonable price compared to brass but I ultimately want to reload my spent casings. I have heard others have done it but I’ve never actually seen it done. I imagine it would require a metric crapton of case lube for sizing.

Comments? Questions? Concerns? Confessions?

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I haven’t reloaded anything but I’m curious to hear the answer on this one.

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We have a few hundred of the Tula in 308win. The ones we shot we tossed the cases. What we have we keep for a bad rainy day. Steel maybe possible to reload but why? The coating would be a PIA and the force and friction to move steel would be hard on equipment designed to move brass.

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When I 1st was reloading I would pick up brass before I figured out that was a bad idea. I got some Berdan primed brass without knowing it. That will break your decap pin PDQ. Case life would be abysmal too.

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I’ve reloaded 45ACP steel w/ carbide dies just to see, worked fine. Second time though the press several of split cases. 38/ revolver should be OK for at least the same 1 time maybe 2? Do you know whether boxer or berdan primed?

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Because steel is cheap compared to brass ammo. Since it’s revolver ammo, I don’t have to worry about feeding issues that steel seems to have in some semi autos.

That is a good question and one I didn’t consider until I started internet surfing on the subject. Did not realize a lot of steel ammo is berdan as opposed to boxer. Will have to double check before ordering any.

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Revolver is much easier. I still don’t think you’ll get many reloads. It may seem cheaper, if it is, I doubt by much. Something to consider when you add a caliber, gonna need brass.

When I first started in buying my own guns and ammo, I wish I had been saving brass all along. When I think how much I gave away for all those years before starting to reload myself. :sob:

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I have reloaded steel 45acp and 38’s w/carbide dies. The 45’s I reloaded were WW2 surplus ammo I shot up.

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I did a few rounds of 223 steel cases years ago, just had to know…had to lube like hell and ran them through sizing dies a couple times just to be sure…had to chamfer the crap out of primer pocket and neck…did not try to crimp them…they worked and most split, not worth the effort at that time…in the future ? maybe…

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Revolver cases might last for 2 loads or so.

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I have done it but I found it was not worth the wear and tear on the dies.

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Well, I guess I may just let this idea slide. I did order a few hundred rounds of brass ammo rather than the steel so in the long run it should save me money. Doesn’t sound like the steel would hold out for very long and I really don’t want to damage my reloading equipment.

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The steel cased ammo we have we vacuum sealed for that ‘Bad Day’. The Tula was/is definitely more accurate than the surplus LC 308 that we plink with. It has surprisingly good ‘runout’ actually. Most of the surplus has pretty bad runout and the seating depth consistency varies. Though I like Lake City brass myself. It is very durable if annealed every time it lasts ‘forever’. If sorted for case weight and then also water weight using a Lee collet neck die on turned and regularly trimmed necks, and crimped with a measured crimp can produce consistently accurate ammo. Albeit it does have slightly less capacity due to the thicker wall and web.

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