Right now we are waiting on Redding reloading to send us their large press. Once that arrives we will be doing some reloading podcasts using different presses and calibers. As with all our podcasts, we will have live chat for people to ask questions.
Your right my tablet changes stuff and I did not see that one.
Wow really great Tips!
So this is the plan to load budget loads for my first 100 using low cost stock.
Lee Hand Press
Lee auto primer
Lee Die Set
Lee Hand Case Trimmer to use with power drill
Speer projectiles (100 $29.00 on sale now here)
My once fired brass PPU/Federal/Winchester/
Of course once cleaned.
Can I get thoughts on cleaning process. I have seen many videos from experts to armatures.
Some clean for 45mins others for hours.
Is there an actual reason to clean for a long duration and and really shinny brass?
My thoughts for hunting, as long as the case is reasonably clean and no foreign objects inside good to reload. My understanding is an ultra clean and shinny load is for precision shooting eg. Match or Long/Extra Long range to enhance the bullets co-efficiency and consistency.
Do I to this for shooting out to 300?
Really depends on your objectives. Quite honestly, if you’re going to get into precision shooting, you’ll be investing a lot more money into your reloading gear. For hunting, using a bolt action rifle, your setup will be fine as long as you are very careful about the quality of your work.
As for case cleaning, as long as there is no dirt, debris, or other crud inside the case or primer hole, and the case is resized and prepped correctly, shinyness is not critical. I usually use plain old cheap minute rice in my tumbler…and just let it run while I’m doing other projects.
When I first started out, I bought a Lee Challenger kit that included all the stuff I needed to start reloading. Over the years I changed gears and went through a couple of turret presses, eventually sold them, and guess what? I now have another single stage Lee press because I simply don’t do any volume reloading and the single stage Lee fits my needs just fine.
I think most of us started out learning with the inexpensive Lee stuff. I still use some of it. One thing worth noting… get a good competition bullet seater. Yeah, I know, it costs more than the entire Lee die set. IT’S WORTH IT! It isn’t a have to have right now item but, you will see a drastic difference in accuracy. At least, I did.
What he said. Although, i never thought about using the rice. That’s friggin genius!
I saw the Competion due sets with the really quick adjustments…then I saw the price
That will be my one day item!
I 3ben saw the Competition precision rifles that don’t like rifles but turrets n shooters make there load!
Watch the powder as every single bullet gets sat down on the case before seated, then case gauge every single round before it goes into a 100 box that lets you see the primers highly visible. That alone will greatly increase your quality and safety.
This is what i started out with…
So measuring the overall length once loaded is ESSENTIAL every time, Is the length checking die an accurate option for efficiency?
Keith P that is an awesome price!
I was looking at the kits but decided I didn’t need all the fancy stuff now.
So ordered the hand press and ordering the die set, hand case trimmer for the drill. Everything else i will make do or improvise. I found so many hacks on YouTube like DIY Case Lube, Tumblers ect. You can save so much $$$ to put towards Hardware:grinning:
I would think using a set of analog or digital calipers is the most accurate way to check OAL but for pistol dropping them into a case gauge gives you a very quick verification if they exceed OAL. Once your seating die on the press is setup properly ypu’re usually good to go.
Start with books, sugjestions; old Ideal reloading handbooks, belding and mull hand books,american rifleman handbook,complete guide to reloading funk and wagnal author Phill sharp circa 1933?the old timers knew their stuff and it adds a broad base quickly!
Remember there is 0 tolerence for error!
Don’t overdo it with the case trimmer. You may only need to use it occasionally (like after 10 or 12 reloads of a given case. The “length die” is case length and allows you to file off the case to the proper length. Again, may only be needed once every tenth time it has been reloaded. Hot loads and low angle shoulders more than conservative loads and steep shoulder cartridges. Overall length is the complete cartridge including the bullet - which can vary a lot.
Optimally the bullet should be around 0.015" to 0.020" short of the lands. Not always possible - but another thing that can be controlled if you want the ultimate results. Though you can hunt successfully your whole life and not worry about it.
As far as case cleaning - a minimal investment is one of the 3M or similar metal polishing “cloths” that are the modern substitute for steel wool. For cleaning a couple dozen cases prior to reloading they are fine. I worry more about chamber and neck/throat abrasion from grit in the crud than any case benefit. And they look better. I lube my cases to resize and wipe it off before adding powder and that also helps keep them cleaned and pretty.
I prefer a vernier caliper over the dial. Drop a dial caliper and its garbage. The vernier will last longer. Takes a bit more effort to read though.
I have both. The dial variety IS easier if you are using a comparator or similar that requires a re-zero with the jaws apart, or with something like a headspace gauge in the jaws.
I hv been watching hand loading vids.
Is it not necessary to measure case length for rifle calibre?
These guys resized, primed, charged and seeded straight away.
Using Lee loader kit. Didn’t check case length just overall.
So you need to know the safe perameters for case length for all case and trim if nessesary
Uniform case length is part of the equation for accurate reliable cartriges could be they were proper length.some cases stretch and run more than others and need to be trimmed often or always!223 556 measure them stay safe!
If you dont the sd seating depth will be different for each bullet not good.
Copy that, carry on!
Not every case - at least I don’t. Unlike a straight-walled pistol case a rifle with a neck headspaces on the shoulder (or rim if it’s a magnum). My brass is all separated by lot. When I shoot up a bunch I deprime and clean up the cases (taper the inside of the neck slightly), lube, resize, expand the neck and then just measure a couple random samples. If they are below maximum recommended case length I move on to to priming.
If they are over I will set up the trimmer and take them back to minimum (usually 0.010" shorter than maximum). That’s about 1/2 the thickness of a thumbnail. See why you shouldn’t go crazy with a trimmer?
It’s not a bad idea to check often if you are using a new caliber/rifle. Once you have reloaded the brass a few times (KEEP RECORDS OF EVERY BATCH) you will get a feel for what is going on with that rifle, case, load. Not all brass is the same between makes. Some softer (flows more readily) some harder.
You can check a bunch by setting the calipers to max recommended and if the case slides through - pass. If it is too long - fail.