Request for 1911 Build Component Suggestions

Gunsmithing 80% Builds
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I’ve been collecting parts and tools for a 1911 build. VytaminC frame and mill jig, Rem Sport slide, NightHawk Custom threaded barrel, some various Wilson Combat parts (springs, pins, plunger tube,link kit, etc.). I want to go ahead and purchase the remaining components and tools. I would like to solicit suggestions on the beavertail grip safety and hammer. This is a stainless build and of course the VytaminC frame has a .250 radius.Thanks for any input.

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I like the Wilson highride grip safety, I like the feel. but it’s 220 radius so need that jig. I been using cylinder & slide trigger and hammer parts in my last 2 builds.

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The frame is a .250 radius so to use the .220 I’d have to add material. So I need a beavertail made for the .250 radius. I already have a cylinder and slide trigger I plan to use. I’ll have to take a look at their hammers. I do want a skeletonized trigger. I’d also like to get all the components from Brownells if possible just to reduce shipping. I have order some tools anyway. Thanks for the reply.

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I beleive that Ed brown or smith and Alexander are a .250 radius
I ussualy use Wilson parts and as stated it’s a .220 radius

Where did you source the vytemenc frame from ?

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I believe you would have to take some off with a 220 radius. Smith and Alexander also makes a Highride grip safety in 250 radius.

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I purchase the vytaminc frame and mill fixture as a combo on GunBroker.

Unless I’m thinking wrong if the radius on the beavertail is 220 then the 250 frame would already have to much material removed.

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Is this Your first build ?

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Yes this is my first 1911 build. I have a lathe and mill so I’m not too concerned about the rail to slide fit. My main concern is the barrel lug and achieving proper lockup. I’m going to have to study that awhile.

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pics please I’ve not heard of this company and like to learn about the options

frame is?

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Vytamen c was a brand of frames from a smaller shop in California there frames were pretty nice I beleive @Mosinvirus used a 1 or 2 that I know of
I’ve been looking for one for a bit now but that company is no longer in business
They were in competition with 1911 builders for a while and there was a heated debate between the two on igor’s Instagram page

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Slide to frame fit is the most important part of a build
Don’t take it lightly because you have tooling

Have checked the deck height on your frame
Vytamen c frames are notorious for needing some serious decking

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Robert,
The VytaminC frames are still available on gunbroker https://www.gunbroker.com/item/860084282 If you view the sellers other items you will see other frame options. I bought mine some time back and got my frame and mill fixture for around the price the frames are going for now.

Gaintspeed,
I don’t take the slide to frame fit lightly but I worked as a machinist in a tool shop for several years and taught machine shop at a community college. So I know how to kill parts but I’m most comfortable with the machining. The decking with a mill fixture and an end mill is a fairly straight forward process. I have checked it but I don’t remember how much needs to be removed.

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I’ll keep this in mind, hopefully I’ll get back at it this year

Thank you!

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I’m needing to pickup a checkering file. It seems like the most popular pitch is 25. For some reason the 25 cost twice as much as the 20 or 30. Any thoughts on the preferred pitch and is the 25 pitch worth the extra cash?

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Just read the thread.

@garyb, the frame tangs radius is measured from the center of the thumb safety hole in the frame. .250 is larger than .220 so a .250 can be reduced to .220 radius. I would stick with .250.

Egw grip safety actually comes cut to .245 so you could attempt a tighter fit if you want to go that route, removing a couple thousandths off the tangs to allow a .155" diameter pin to pass through both the frame and grip safety holes.

As far as checkering files, 25 line per inch checkering is what most people find comfortable - not too aggressive and not too “smooth” - maybe it is one of the reasons it is more expensive.

Since you want to get the tightest fitting bottom lug fit and you probably don’t have that fancy milling jig, the bottom lug cutter kit from Brownells is what you want.

You may also want to get custom diameter cutters for that kit from Mr. Chambers. https://www.store.chamberscustom.com/products/1911-barrel-leg-cutters since slide stop pins are actually .200". So a .198" diameter cutter is good to have.

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@Mosinvirus Yea I already had both EGW beavertails on my wish list at Brownell’s.I can’t decide between the standard or the JEM specific.I noticed you have used the JEM with a 1911 Builder’s frame. I think you also used a VytamenC frame before too. Which beavertail would you recommend with the VytamenC frame?

I already have the bottom lug cutter from Brownell’s. I just bought the lug cutter with the 0.195 cutter. I plan to turn my own barrel holder on the lathe. I’d seen those oversize cutters before. Always seem to be out of stock. I’ll probably order one as you suggest in 0.198 if I can.

I guess I’ll go ahead an suck it up and buy the 25 lpi file. Seems to be the standard these days.

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I used the JEM beavertail. It has a very nice shape and will require a bit of material to be removed from the frame when blending.

25 LPI is also easier to cut than 20 for example. I am sure you can make your own checkering jig too. The one I use is super simple and could easily be made on a mill.

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I’d already planned on making my checkering jig. I also want too make a hood milling fixture along the lines of the Everglades Ammo fixture

although I don’t think you need that big of a chunk of aluminum to make that fixture.

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The idea is if the barrel is not fitting the slide?

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Yes a gunsmith barrel requires the hood to be cut to fit the breachface

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