Rust Remover

Any suggestions on a good rust remover? I have been using CLR but I just finished up the last of it. CLR seems to work OK but I feel like there is probably a better product and maybe available easily that I could use. Any suggestions?

7 Likes

white vinegar

8 Likes

Are we talking about removing light rust but not bluing?

6 Likes

Good question, and removing is one thing, keeping it from returning is another

WD40 and other similar products will remove it well, depending on the metal you can just wipe some off, others use a toothbrush or in the case of chrome wheels etc use steel wool

6 Likes

Well for this particular project it is a rusted old hatchet I’m working on. So for this time I don’t have bluing but what would you suggest for both applications as I’m sure I will do some in the future that will have bluing.

7 Likes

1st my thoughts on CLR and a Firearm. No.

It will ruin a finish. I think soaking metal in it will affect the carbon in the steel. Just my take. Others here with more expertise can speak to that possibility.

I just did a mount screw that was rusted. PB Nut Blaster with patience got it out, and cleaned it up. I also applied steel wire brush, steel wool (with patience) and elbow grease to clean it up to put it back in.

Rust in a barrel I use a brass bore brush wrapped in a thin layer of Blue (Never Green) scrubby pad. Green will scratch metal, and finishes for sure. On a Hatchet head I would use green to get it done and use fine steel wool to finish.

6 Likes

The reason I asked whether preserving bluing is important is because some chemical or mechanical removal of rust can also remove bluing (because it is basically converted rust).

Evaporust works great to remove rust and bluing. Shown in a few of my videos.

Big 45 metal cleaner pad mechanically removes rust, leading in bores, etc. Not as abrasive as steel wool, so it doesn’t hurt bluing unless you go wild with it. Also shown in a couple of my videos.

Brass wool with a bit of oil will remove rust without hurting bluing but may leave a bit of brass deposit back on the surface. Easy to clean off though.

All kind of depends on the surface. If there are deep pits, you either have to go chemical, or sand the surface down to smooth (removing rust in process).

In many cases, if you properly degreased the surface and mechanically removed some of the top “crust” rust, you could boil or steam rust to convert it to black oxide. Think “slow rust bluing”. It is a way to preserve carbon steels, but only if surfaces are later and continuously oiled.

Since we are not talking any kind of bluing preservation…

7 Likes

Awesome, this particular one had some pretty decent pitting which is why I went with chemical. I have been doing that with using a steel brush. I plan on going back and squaring up stuff with it with a belt sander and using an angle grinder. I think I’m also going to attempt to etch some marking into it. Thank you and everyone for the help

7 Likes

I’ve used Kroil and really liked the results. https://www.kroil.com/

9 Likes

@TickledDog
That smell though… ooof
For some reason I also have an issue with Balistoll - makes me caugh

8 Likes

:grin: That’s why I don’t use it in the house and store it in the garage in a ziplock bag.

8 Likes

I used to do a lot of conserving on antique tools, getting the red active rust off and such. I ended up using soapy hot water and a fine brass brush, one I had was marked sued brush. I tried lots of chemicals, electrolysis, as well as abrasive products and for me this was the only method that would leave enough original surface.

8 Likes

Nasty smelling stuff. I use it though.

7 Likes

Navel jelly will work and cleans up with water. Just don’t use it on bluing.

6 Likes

It works I have heard, but I never tried navel jelly personally. I also heard it will straight up remove blueing.

5 Likes

I’ve used it and it will remove blueing. When you think about it bluing is just a form of rust it’s self.

6 Likes

So this weekend when I was looking at buying some of the Evaporust, my brother asked what I was doing. He suggested I use a product called “Metal Rescue”. I did a quick google search and I didn’t really find any reviews from people just big box stores. I haven’t had much spare time to really search out but he gave me a jug of it. Anyone know if it is any good and and if it is safe for bluing etc.?

5 Likes