Squires Bingham .22


#1

Some guns need a touch up every now and then. I recently bought a .22 for $12. It has a shiny bore but is rusted on the outside. I think it’s a perfect candidate for painting. I’ve done Cerakote and I was happy with the results. I want to go cheap on this one. Should I use Duracoat? Let me know what you think. I’m also going to be refinishing the stock, recutting checkering for fun, etc.


#2

I stopped by the local second hand store and found a Weaver 1-4 scope for this thing for $10. Total investment: $22


#3

Wotta’ deal.
Good find.
You might be able to lightly sand the finish off and use a nice looking stain.
Very inexpensive, not counting the elbow grease.
I did that with a shotgun that had been painted in a camo pattern.
It came out quite well.


#4

Thought I’d share with you if by chance you’re not familiar with this specific product that is safe to use indoors without face mask or heavy ventilation. Very safe to use on wood, metal and plastic products to remove paint, stain and varnish.

It’s called ‘Citristrip’ and it did a wonderful job stripping off all the old varnish & stain off my deer rifle, plus years worth of seeped in gun oil. Three different applications where I’d let it sit for approximately 20-30 minutes and allow it to do it’s thing, then afterwards I wiped off all the residue with a plastic putty knife and/or paper towels.

I posted the before and after in the following thread below,

Good luck with your new project!


#5

Citristrip and I are very old friends! My plan is to do the stripping with that, then boil the grease out of the stock and take the dents out with a wet cloth and an iron. After that, a light sanding.

@Wildlife You did an excellent job with that shotgun by the way!


#6

Thank you! I did the same with my shotgun too on the final touches. I’m pleased in how it turned out.

Like I said, good luck it getting that keeper back in shape again!


#7

I revisited your shotgun and saw that you did Duracoat. How is it holding up? Did you use the aerosol can?


#8

Yes I did use the aerosol and so far, so good.

It’s some tough stuff in my opinion. Easy to apply…

Being that it’s my regular shotgun that I use it in rough field and weather conditions, I thought it would be much easier to touch up going forward than re-bluing it after heavy use in those challenging conditions every 10 or 20 years,

I’ve shot approximately 20 rounds through it since I did the work and I’ve cycled the action several times, it appears to remain perfectly in tack since the application was complete.

I’ll add however, I wouldn’t do this to my old Marlin 336 30-30 rifle. I intend on doing the bluing solution for all the metal. I wish to restore that particular rifle back to its original state at some point.


#9

Ok, I’m using Duracoat. You have me convinced. It will be about a month before I can get to it. (I’m buying another house and where I’m living, I can’t really get projects done).


#10

Good luck with your new home and when you do get around to your rifle project,

might I suggest that perhaps you test the two different solutions on small portions on the barrel first?

You’ll get to see with your own eyes what you would prefer going forward. I have in my workbench supply’s both Duracoat and Birchwood Casey Perma Blue. Like I said previously, I intend on Perma Blue solution for my Marlin rifle rather than Duracoat. The Duracoat was the best option for my deer rifle.

Regardless, best of luck to you on restoring your rifle.


#11

@Wildlife Thanks for the thoughts so far. I don’t think this is a good candidate for bluing simply because of the spots on the receiver end cap and rear sight that have been essentially ruined by our old enemy- rust. I’m hoping a duracoat will help to hide and protect. There are also mystery chatter marks on the barrel. Who knows what from.

them better.


#12

And to everyone saying this is a lost cause, I say ‘Oh ye of little faith. Gaze upon thy bore’. :grinning:


#13

Looks like a fun project really. Just needs plenty of patience throughout the entire process. You’ll get her back! :slightly_smiling_face:


#14

In an effort to clean up, ThisOldGhost has moved this thread from ‘Gunsmithing’ to ‘Restoration’.


#15

I know that your heart is set on duracoat. Have you looked into appliance paint? It is extremely resistant to many chemical.
Just putting that out there for a budget alternative.


#16

I have thought about that. I tried it once and the black came out glossy. Did I do something wrong? I’m after more of a matte black- hiding some blemishes that I may not be able to get out.


#17

Ho I got just the trick! Grill paint!


Very dark and no sheen!


#18

That’s what I painted my Sten with- it turns that shiny black color once it’s oven cured. It kept rubbing off on my hands when I tried to air dry it. It’s good stuff for sure but it wears easily.


-Before the oven cure

-After
It really highlights the imperfections.


#19

Am I just being difficult at this point? I think I need to make a concession on looks in favor of budget.


#20

Not difficult, just sharing your experiences.
It does sound like you may have to go the duracoat route.