Staking vs red Loctite for AR15 castle nut?


#1

Not sure if ive asked this on here before but what is the general consensus on staking vs red Loctite, for a castle nut on an AR15? I know several companies like Noveske and Knights Armandment use loctite while most companies stick to staking.


#2

Personally I prefer blue loctite. Stays put until you don’t want it to. Red usually takes heat to get it apart. Staking is good…if done right. If not, well then, why bother?
My guess would be the higher end guys want it more permanent with less risk of failure, hence the red loctite. Just my guess though.


#3

I wouldn’t use red, it gets hard. Use the blue because it stays softer and a little heat is all it takes to loosen it up enough to remove it.


#4

Staking is harder to reverse and can cause damage in the attempt.
Locktite, either one, responds to heat - less of a problem than staking.
When choosing the appropriate Locktite, take into consideration how hot the parts will get.
Blue might loosen due to a high running temperature of the parts to be held.
If so, then red would be better.
Some strong solvents, like acetone, can loosen even the red Locktite.


#5

^ This.

Any idea what kind of heat we are taking about?


#6

I’ve used blue on a 9mm brake and it never moved. However, red is a better option for anything running hot like a brake.


#7

A soldering iron used directly on the locktited part works pretty good without over heating like a torch would.
When dissimilar materials are involved, with different rates of contraction and expansion, putting the parts in the freezer can work.
Just don’t mix up the parts with the frozen lasagna.


#8

I don’t believe the gunsmith I used to build my lower use locktite. It’s not staked either, though I tried and it didn’t work out well so I quit. I wonder how many rounds through it will I notice if the castle nut starts to back out?


#9

Displaced material from staking should be easy to see.
There’s really no way to see if thread locker has been used, unless so much was used it’s running out all over the place.
Otherwise it’s only just on the threads and out of sight.


#10

I use a heat gun. Works great.


#11

My smith looked at me funny when I mentioned loctite instead of staking, he was an armorer in the Army though so maybe he is just stuck in his ways.


#12

If you’re not going to make any changes, I guess it’s fine. For me, I’m changing things all the time.


#13

At our auto repair shop we used a heat gun for separating the old big end rod bearings from the rods.
But ya’ gotta’ be real careful there’s nothing combustible on the work bench.
And there’s a fire extinguisher nearby.
'Cause sooner or later, somebody will be in hurry and light the bench on fire.
A good way to become very unpopular.
And them military guys have a book to go by for everything.
Don’t go by the book and it’s execution at dawn.


#14

I just check the castle nut each time I clean. I’ve never had one come loose yet.


#15

Call me old fashioned but I always stake the end plate to displace a little nipple of metal into the castlenut notch.


#16

I usually put 2-300 rounds through my rifle then take it to my smith to get the castele nut staked. Im going to try some loctite on my next build though.


#17

To be honest I have done it both ways.
I believe if I owned a business that produced AR-15 rifles I would have them staked.
I know in the past I have looked at other companies rifles and if there is no staking I can see that gets a negative point. You at that point can only assume/ hope that there is Loctite, and most times there isn’t any.