Tools in the gun community... and I'm not talking wrenches

I usually cry and hug myself in the corner, sometimes I tell myself “itll be alright, little buddy”.

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And then you pull yer pants up and walk away?

Haw. Comedy!!

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Bahhaha. Just had a huge to do on twitter because I called someone out for using clip instead of magazine. So I was asked to explain the difference. Which I did, a clip holds rounds that are fed in to a magazine, and a magazine holds rounds that are fed in to a chamber. Well, after the butt hurt fool got all her friends to jump in and say I’m wrong. What I can say, guess my text book for school is wrong.

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Pfft, you are wrong. Everyone knows it is called a clipazine. DUH!

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This is a clipazine

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@RogueGunnWorks Just remember… “Nobody realizes that some people expend tremendous energy merely to be normal”. -Albert Camus

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Its the mature members :wink:

Where?..

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For the record, I fit AR safeties, as well.

When you live in a state that has PSA building guns and selling them to the public, you learn to fit everything. Don’t get me wrong, PSA parts are fine. But, I’m pretty sure they go to the cashier and are like, “Hey, you with the tits. Come put these AR’s together.” That’s when they become a problem.

I’ve built dozens of guns from their parts and never had an issue. Conversely, I’ve had dozens of their “off the shelf” guns on my bench.

The point is, a youtube video and reading a forum doesn’t make you a gunsmith. I deal with plenty of, “I saw on the internets” problems. Even selling guns at a store doesn’t make you a gunsmith. Please, for the love of God, go to a gunsmith.

If you’ve never worked on a car, and decide to do your brakes watching a video, you or someone else might die. And your brakes aren’t holding back hundreds of thousands of PSI’s of pressure over the span of nanoseconds. You aren’t holding your car in your hands, inches from your face, when trying to get it to stop, either.

And, idk who the post is about, but, regardless to the amount of followers they may have, if they don’t know that parts need fitting, they are not the expert. And should probably be using a gunsmith.

End rant.

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Ive never had to fit parts on an AR, what parts need fitting? (I am not trying to sound like a smart ass, I am genuinely curious).

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Every part has a specified dimension and a tolerance (plus or minus so many thousandths of an inch) for that dimension. Tolerance stacking can cause problems when one part is near the end of the range for acceptable tolerance for that part, and the part it mates to is also near the end of the acceptable range, but at the worst possible end of the range to match up to the other part (oversize pin in an undersize hole, for example). Toss in sloppy quality control allowing out of tolerance parts to get through, and things just get worse.

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So, you’re trying to tell me that my PSA upper mated to my Anderson lower, completed with a FunYang LPK, and Blackthorne 5.59 DizzyAuto barrel is not perfectly milspec!? Next you’ll be telling me my gold plated explodamatic super auto BCG is out of spec as well! Holy cow Batman! Everyone knows all this stuff is the best! Some guy on Fakebook posted it on ARFARFKaboom.com!

(Just FYI…fully loaded with sarcasm here folks…)

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Makes sense, seems to be more of an issue with budget stuff though. The good quality stuff is rarely out of spec, from what ive seen. Also, I think @DarkCornerGunworks made a good point about certain companies individual parts being better quality than their complete rifles. Its weird but certainly true.

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Absolutely true on gun parts… Palmeto State Armory is the #1 “pile o parts” I work on.
This entire post was not so much about fitting parts, it is parts that fail. Well… if they are not fitted well, they will fail!
I as of yet have ever had a safety detent pin “fail”
So… just because you are some big wig who has 28K followers, is a top ranked shooter and an editor to a magazine doesn’t mean snot if you cannot take a post for what it is… INPUT
it is my job to make things fit, to be customized, to run smoothly… over time you get to know a platform or brands of parts. There are parts I love, and parts I deal with. Hahahaa

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Makes sense, I know ive learned quite a bit from you on here. (You helped me see the light on thoss LWRC BCGs lol) Hopefully my questions and responses are not taken the same as this other guys though. I would never talk down to somebody like that (unless joking), ecspecially a smith or someone who does this stuff for a living . I might express my preferences or opinion on something but thats about it.

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Since when? You told me gunsmiths were a bunch of wanna be know-it-alls that are overpaid Lego babysitters! Im confused @Caw

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HahhahahhahahHHhhaahahahhaahhahahhahahhaa

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So here is the deal on safety detent pins failing…
The problem is several. So let’s start with the pin.
The pins are not all the same.
Some are softer than others!
I run the black stainless pins or the raw stainless pins in my guns.
The “cadmium” plated ones can be junk! So know your quality of pins!
Second, the safety. Not all safeties are made the same. Most are cast.
More than one has had to heavy of detents with rough or sharp transitions between the detents. This places huge side load on the pins!
Most CNC machined parts are good… I personally run Battle Arms development safeties because I have never had a bad one yet.
Yes, you can still blend this connection…
On a dedicated marksman rifle, I have them set up so they are a positive on and off, but with basically zero noise and a very smooth operation.
How?
This comes to the 3rd part… the spring!
I have found that most grips are not consistent with their spring pocket depths. Magpul tends to be shallow. This results in heavy spring pressure! More pressure, the harder that pin has to work!
So!
Lighten the spring! You can easily take a pair of dikes and snip off 1 1/2 coils to the spring. Or more… depending on what you are doing and the feel you are after.
I have used my belt sander to smooth the end of the spring, making sure I install the cut end into the grip.

A 4th thing you can do is micro polish the pin, and the detents and the transition grove. This can prove to be hard… but can be done with some tools. IE dremal and elbow grease. I will use my needle diamond files and then aluminum oxide wet dry paper.
Finishing it with actual puffing compounds. Start with black then end with white. Red is usually the middle ground for compounds.
You also have to be aware of the machined surface of the safety (the barrel) and the receiver. I have had more than one be loose. This can cause issues… hard to solve issues.
Years ago, I did install brass bushings into one… yes… this was nuts and I would probably never do it again. Sadly, no photos.
But it did work and then I resized the new holes with a undersized reamer.
Also! I do not use grease… I use oil. This helps with the action of the safety.
All of this seems silly till you actually start playing with these parts in this manner. The results are worth the effort. And… I have yet to see a destroyed safety detent spring!
I do the same thing with take down pins by the way!
Also… with Cerakote, I can add a luberisity layer than helps quite a bit also. This is also a great way to “tighten” up a receiver. While I spray between .00125 and .00185 most of the time, if a receiver is sloppy and loose, .002 then followed by the right sized reamer makes quick work of it.
Some of the advantages of the Elite Series Cerakote is that it sprays very thin… .00085 or so…
Plus it is harder and more wear resistant. All depends on the application and end use.

Help keep your weapons running with a little insight.
Feel free to repost this into gunsmithing or something so more people know about these tricks of the trade. :grin:

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:thinking: Maybe the title of this thread should be Butt Hurt :joy::rofl::joy::rofl::joy::rofl::joy::rofl:

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Good info :+1:

Only parts ive had to fit was a charging handle but what youre saying does make sense.

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