Auto parts store
Obviously @Robert, but I am seeing some people go for silicone lines vs Rubber. I am leaning toward rubber because I feel like silicone lines will collapse.
Iād just go stock, you get decades of use with no fuss, and no one every compliments you on your choice of vacuum lines
Yeah I am leaning toward the rubber hose. Will pick some up after all the manifold business is done.
I slowly replaced everything with silicone on the madman, handle heat really well and didnāt have any problems with collapsing. Look nice also. Didnāt take any good photos, unusual for me.
When I redo the ālilā Beast I will be using Silicone. The spark plug/coil wires have held well.
Which brand are you using?
Got it from Summit or Jegs. Donāt remember if it was mishimoto or turbosmart. Used up the last of it for the coolant recovery hose on the bench mill.
Installed the passenger side manifold, decided to punt on the spark plug heat shields. Replaced spark plugs and wires on passenger sideā¦
Then got to working on the driver side, and couldnāt separate the EGR valve line from the manifold, or the EGR. they are married for life I guess.
So ordered a new EGR and the line.
Got one broken stud out and still need to drill out the other oneā¦
All this and theyāll not pass your smog test next year due to a policy on replacing OEM parts
I hope this is not the case
To avoid it make sure to change the trucks gender,
look for a Chinese clone to identify as
Here is a couple tricks to get your broken bolt out. If the bolt is broken off flush or below the mating surface install the old manifold temporarily without the gasket, find a drill bit the same size as the bolt hole in the manifold and just start to drill out just enough to to get the center of the broken bolt counter sunk to center your extractor hole centered in the bolt. If the bolt sticks out of the mating surface at all , find a nut that will just fit over the bolt then weld it to the broken bolt, let it cool for about 5 minutes the heat should help break it loose, then just unscrew it. If it still wont budge softly work it back and forth is should break loose and come out.
I love the one Iāve got but it only works for getting nuts off of studs, on a bolt it only heats up the bolt head if you use on a bolt head the head will break off before it frees up the treads.
Vaccum lines? I use 3/16ths steel brake line.
That is a clean look.
@Barrett i completely agree, that looks beautiful and super clean. I donāt know if i will do that to mine, but it sure looks amazing.
As far as bolts/studs go, I am down to just one that is broken nearly flush with the body surface. I will definitely try using the manifold as a guide when drilling.
The other broken bolts just had their heads snap off so it was easy to take them out. I used this guy to do it.
I am also using it as a tap holder to chase the threads in those holes. Choke up on the tap and turn the tool by hand. That knurling gives just enough grip, and because it is only chasing threads it doesnāt require any real force
Well, this broken bolt business has had me nearly giving up. But I havenāt just yet.
Drilled a deep enough hole to get the extractor in. Tried to give it a twist and the extractor broke in the hole.
Ordered diamond coated drills (3/16") and have been using them to try and get the extractor out. Canāt tell if it is still in there or not, but I donāt see thread lines so I am pretty sure I havenāt wandered completely off center just yet.
What a PITA! Carborundum or diamond dremmel bits to get the hardened extractor out of the way, then more drilling. I assume the head is out of the truck? Just rambling, if you could figure a way to pilot dead center you could get a lot closer to the inside thread diameter. thinking something like a mag drill bit but I donāt know if they come that small. Use the other holes to attach a fixture, then maybe try an end mill?
Take the head to a machine shop and have them EDM that broken bolt out.